The mothers of our perfumes

Behind every one of our creations hides a perfumer, a "nose." These individuals with boundless creativity and a keen sense of smell are at once artists, chemists, and passionate professionals. All gifted with an olfactory style and a unique signature, perfumers translate their talent into their scented creations.

On the occasion of Mother's Day, the idea of paying tribute to the mothers of our perfumes felt like an obvious choice. A portrait of these women, mothers of our fragrances, without whom our olfactory compositions—from the most understated to the most daring—would never have come to life.

The perfume creation process

Before introducing our three perfumers, it is necessary to explain the various steps involved before the creation of a perfume, to better understand them.

It may not be obvious at first glance, but it is undeniable: olfactory creation is no small feat. Months of labor, dozens of trials, combinations of materials, and readjustments are necessary to create the perfect marriage of scents.

Our first step is defining the desired fragrance world. Internally, our perfume evaluator, advised by the marketing teams, prepares very precise specifications for the creative firms to which many perfumers are attached. The olfactory world is determined beforehand, as is other information such as the olfactory family in which the new perfume will fall or the story we wish to tell with this fragrance.

Once briefed, the perfumers begin their tests and combinations of raw aromatic materials with a final goal: the creation of a captivating and intoxicating home fragrance capable of evoking emotions. From there, a process of close collaboration between Estéban and the "nose" begins: several back-and-forth exchanges are necessary to determine and olfactively readjust the perfume until the perfect fragrance is obtained. This stage lasts between 4 and 9 months and requires nearly 30 to 40 different trials and olfactory adjustments. A long-term endeavor that our perfumers take to heart to create, in the end, the perfect olfactory combination that will turn your home into a scented haven of peace.

But who are these women behind these memorable creations?

Irène Farmachidi: creator of Citronnelle & Menthe, Ambre & Vanille Étoilée, and Néroli & Frangipanier (among others)

To kick things off, we must mention the talented Irène Farmachidi, mother of many of our perfumes. From woody to aromatic fragrances, and even floral ones, no note holds any secrets for this renowned perfumer.

Daring and curious, Irène Farmachidi draws inspiration from nature and, more broadly, from "beauty" to create her perfumes. According to her, everything is a pretext for creation and a source of inspiration: music, landscapes, art, colors, atmospheres... For over twenty years, she has combined the language of brands with her own writing style to create perfumes imbued with a distinct and singular universe. For her, it is essential to make her perfumes vibrate to create emotions and offer pleasure.

The history between Irène Farmachidi and Estéban goes back a long way. She is the creator of several of our collections (current or past), including Citronnelle & Menthe, Sapin Exquis, or Néroli & Frangipanier.

In her work, she prefers, when possible, natural raw materials to create sophisticated and original perfumes. It is beautiful, rich, and complex materials that attract her and that she seeks to sublimate. She favors short formulas where each note has its place and, in turn, gives a subtle identity to the perfume.

Her "Madeleine de Proust": vanilla. It is therefore not surprising to find it in several of her creations, such as:

• - Monoï Soleil, where vanilla combined with musk base notes highlights the scents of a Tiaré flower bathed in light.
• - Ambre & Vanille étoilée, an unprecedented harmony between the accord of gourmet vanilla and warm amber, starting with a hint of citrus freshness and slight aniseed.

A multi-talented creator with whom we are delighted to work.

Emilie Bouge: creator of Iris Cachemire

Mother of only one of our perfumes, but a significant one, Emilie Bouge is a perfumer with an assertive olfactory signature. Her name will be familiar to all perfume lovers, and that is no surprise, as she comes from a family of recognized perfumers. Emilie Bouge has therefore been immersed in the world of perfume since her earliest childhood. In her family, being a perfumer is much more than a job: it is a true tradition, a passion, a heritage passed down from generation to generation.

Drawing her inspiration from art in general, and more specifically from painting and literature, Emilie Bouge has been a perfumer for nearly twenty years. For her, the use of natural raw materials brings authenticity and diversity to a perfume.

In her creations, this perfectionist loves to reinterpret classics and create new accords. Woods, ambers, spices, and fruits are very inspiring materials for her. Having worked in Asia, she has developed a certain ease in working with traditional accords. Nevertheless, Emilie Bouge stepped out of her comfort zone to create a home fragrance that, since then, has become a bestseller at Estéban: Iris Cachemire.

When the project for this collection was still in its infancy, three different avenues were favored. We only had one certainty: the perfume had to exist in a universe that was simultaneously delicate, nude, and cocooning, with powdery notes. Rose was one of the preferred paths, which is why rose petal notes are found in the heart of Iris Cachemire. It was Emilie Bouge who had the clever idea of associating iris absolute, providing that very powdery touch initially sought after. This floral yet woody scent, so delicate and complex at once, brings buttery inflections to the perfume.

An artistic and commercial success for this delicate, undeniably chic perfume!

Clarisse Aparici: creator of Figue Noire, Pin et Fleur de Sel, and Thé en Fleur

Clarisse Aparici is a perfumer who resonates with us, as she makes it a point of honor to create committed perfumes. Indeed, she considers sustainability a key factor when formulating her perfumes. Like her aforementioned colleagues, she favors natural raw materials. Taking it a step further, Clarisse Aparici carefully selects the components of her perfumes, taking into account their origin, extraction method, carbon footprint, and social impact. A true lover of home fragrances, she challenges her creativity to create sophisticated perfumes that, according to her, could almost be likened to body perfumes.

This perfumer draws inspiration from everything (art, nature, environment). Whether through smell, touch, or sight, her senses are continually alert to nourish her imagination and creativity. It is very likely the memory of a walk on the maritime paths of the Mediterranean that inspired her creation Pin & Fleur de Sel. This perfume, where the freshness of sea spray mingles with the warm, woody notes of the pine forest, immediately sends us to the shores of the French Riviera. You can almost hear the cicadas singing.

The Mediterranean seems to be Clarisse Aparici's spearhead, as she is also the creator of the iconic fruity-woody perfume Figue Noire. The latter perfectly embodies the irresistible trail of the fig, a fruit so characteristic of a Mediterranean climate. Upon first olfactory contact, Figue Noire seduces us with its aromas of violet leaves and black fig. Next, we are immersed in a world marked by fig wood and sandalwood. Finally, the base notes of Figue Noire blend together to give way to Labdanum and a few musky accords.

A master in the creation of refined perfumes such as Figue Noire, Clarisse Aparici also gives us a glimpse into another facet of her creativity with the perfume Thé en Fleur: a soft and refined fragrance with the enveloping trail of pure white tea.

A perfumer who, for sure, will never cease to make us dream with her so authentic and delicious creations.