Understanding a Fragrance: The Olfactory Pyramid in Perfumery
Each fragrance family brings together compositions whose olfactory structure presents the same characteristics. The world of perfume is highly sensory, so it is not surprising that it borrows its vocabulary from the world of art, particularly music. Top, heart, and base notes, a sweet melody to describe the construction of a perfume in the olfactory pyramid.
What is the olfactory pyramid?
Each fragrance family brings together compositions whose
The olfactory pyramid corresponds to the architecture of a perfume; it is a representation of its structure describing the different notes, which unfold in successive layers to our nose.
Represented as a triangle divided into three parts, these different "layers" refer to the tenacity of the ingredients present: the base brings together the base notes of a perfume, the center, the heart notes, and at the top, the top notes.
The subtlety and longevity of the perfume, which then develops continuously and gradually, depend on the harmonious balance of the three categories of notes.
These three top, heart, and base notes define a perfume: more or less concentrated, more or less intense, they make it live differently throughout the day and give it a soul and a dimension. When a perfume has well-distributed top, heart, and base notes, it is said to be "faceted", that it has depth.
Top, heart, and base notes in the olfactory pyramid, what are the differences?
The top note, a fleeting first impression
Top notes, the first ones we smell, most often correspond to lighter and more volatile raw materials. The top of the olfactory pyramid therefore corresponds to the first impression given by a fragrance, which will make us want or not to discover the other notes. A most important introduction, also known as the "smile" of the perfume.
The intensity of the top note: Lively, fresh, light and ephemeral, it reveals itself immediately and without detours. This is referred to as the "take-off of the perfume".
The durability of the top note: fleeting, it can be powerful but fades quickly (after about 5 to 15 minutes).
The most represented ingredients in top notes: citrus fruits (lemon, mandarin, bergamot), aromatic herbs (lavender, verbena, mint...) and some fruits (peach, mango, pineapple) or flowers, among the lightest, are frequently found here.
The heart note, the character of the perfume
A link between the top notes and the base notes of the perfume, heart notes embody the personality of your perfume and infuse it with its character. They are also called the "curves" or "roundness" of the perfume.
The intensity of the heart note: less intense than the top note, it reveals itself gradually.
The durability of the heart note: "heavier" than the top note, the heart note appears a few minutes to a few hours after diffusion. After lighting a candle or diffuser, it only fully reveals itself after 20 to 30 minutes, once the top note has evaporated, for a duration of about 4 hours.
The most represented ingredients in heart notes: raw materials such as flowers, fruits, but also spices (cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, etc.) and marine accords are often found here.
The base note, the memory of the perfume
Finally, the base notes constitute the essence of the perfume, its olfactory signature, its "soul". They leave a lasting impression in our memories. The base note allows you to determine in the long term whether you like a perfume or not.
When a perfume is well constructed, its different notes respond in harmony and it is then possible to smell the base notes from the very first seconds. In perfumers' jargon, it is said that "the take-off prepares its conclusion".
The intensity of the base note: the most intense and persistent of the olfactory pyramid, it is the last to manifest itself.
The durability of the base note: tenacious, it is a lasting note that often helps to fix the accords. It evaporates slowly and allows the perfume to last over time. The base note is still perceptible after several hours, or even several days on certain supports (textiles, etc.).
The most represented ingredients in base notes: base notes often include woody essences (patchouli, cedar, sandalwood, vetiver), "animal" notes (amber, leather), resins/balsamic notes as well as more gourmand notes (vanilla, tonka bean, almond in particular).
Understanding the different notes of a fragrance helps to grasp its complexity. It is important to take your time to choose a perfume in order to smell each of them, let it evolve in time and space so that it gradually reveals all its secrets.
Let yourself be surprised: a top note that seems unappealing to you can also hide a splendid heart note and a base note worthy of a masterpiece!
To choose your next home fragrance, we advise you to discover here the 7 major olfactory families that characterize the world of perfume.
