More than just an accessory to complete an outfit or a utilitarian object to cool down with a flick of the wrist, the fan is a mysterious, highly symbolic object with many uses, some of which are millennia old. Estéban takes you on a journey to discover this object, rich in culture and history...
The fan, an instrument of power and protection

The first traces of the fan can be found in Ancient Egypt. The first refined fans were then reserved for the ruling elite. While the use of palm leaves and other broad-leaved branches was, of course, very common for fanning oneself in these arid lands, the use of feather fans (especially ostrich feathers) was the exclusive preserve of the pharaohs. The feather, coming from a being that linked heaven and earth, capable of soaring high into the air, symbolized the protection that the sovereign guaranteed to his people (probably one of the origins of the expression "to take under one's wing"). The kings of many civilizations have also made feathers a royal attribute, whether in crowns, scepters... or fans. Among the Egyptians, the choice of ostrich feathers also had a particular meaning. The ostrich feather, due to its singular shape (equal width on either side of the central axis - which is not the case for other feathers) is an attribute of the goddess Ma'at, goddess of justice, truth, and rectitude. An important symbolism for the Pharaoh, who must make the right decisions regarding the affairs of the Kingdom.
The fan in religious rituals
But the history of power - especially religious - also attributes another, at least... esoteric function to the fan. Greek sources from ancient times indeed evoke the recurring problem of flies invading altars dedicated to the Gods, where food offerings were regularly placed. Then called esmouchoir (fly swatter), the fan helped preserve food from flies, important vectors of epidemics. Later, the adoption of the flabellum (a large fan of feathers or leaves carried on a long handle) by the Catholic Church continued this tradition, nourished by the belief that moving air could ward off evil spirits (in the Christian imagination, flies are associated with diseases, sin, and the devil). This is why flabella were regularly found near altars, intended to protect chalices from malevolent spirits.
The fan in Asia
In Asia, too, flies were not held in high regard: in the Kojiki, an ancient text that brings together various Japanese mythological tales, the sound of evil spirits is compared to that of a swarm of flies. The idea of a fan as an instrument of "purification" was so ingrained that at the Imperial Court of Japan, Buddhist priests were assigned to their manufacture. The fans thus designed not only warded off harmful breaths but also "absorbed" sacred texts (previously printed on the fan panels) by fanning oneself with them!

From its origins, the fan has been intimately linked to the sacred. The first known "secular" uses of the fan in Europe owe their existence to the Silk Road, which allowed the import of objects and products from the Asian world. For, in the collective imagination, the fan is a Chinese or Japanese object. And rightly so...
The evolution of the fan over time
Fixed and Broken Fans
Fans were initially fixed (referred to as "screen" fans). Made of feathers, wood, or woven plants, these fans attached to a handle were very useful for cooling down but not always practical, both in their format and in their handling (the larger sizes required a carrier – a highly honorary function in Ancient Egypt).
These fans were gradually replaced by "broken" fans, which were more convenient due to their ability to fold. Composed of thin, independent slats of wood or ivory connected by a ribbon, traces of them can be found in Europe as early as the Roman Empire and also in Asia, from the 7th century BC. Besides its functions of ventilation and display, it took on another use when its wooden slats were replaced by metal: that of a rallying sign in battles or a defensive weapon in sword fights, used by the samurai class of feudal Japan.
The Invention of the Japanese Sensu

This fan model persisted until the invention of the Japanese sensu (or Ogi) in the 7th century AD. A discovery that, according to some accounts of the time, the Chinese regretted not being able to claim as their own, so practical and aesthetic was the invention. Indeed, the first folding fans arrived in China relatively late, during the Song dynasty (960-1279).
Inspired by bat wings, the Japanese folding fan consists of a set of bamboo splints or wooden slats riveted together at one end and connected by a sheet of paper folded like an accordion. The practice of folding being a notable prerogative of Japanese culture (where origami holds a whole philosophy), it is not surprising to learn that it was in Japan that the famous "folding" fan, still used today, was born.
The Sophistication of Japanese Fans
As in many other fields, Japan appreciates sophistication. Folding fans quickly gained the status of a quasi-work of art. The wooden structures, often lacquered, were made of fragrant woods such as sandalwood or Hinoki wood (also called "false cypress") offering a delicate perfume to the fan's owner and their interlocutor. The central part of the fan, meanwhile, was made of washi paper (a mulberry fiber paper, particularly resistant) or silk, depending on the uses and types of fans. For the sensu in Japan was much more than an everyday accessory...
The fan, a true art of living
The Fan in Japanese Daily Life
Until modern times, the sensu was present in every aspect of Japanese life. Both a feminine and masculine accessory, it has few Western equivalents, so multiple are its symbols and functionalities.

In a culture where handing objects directly was long considered impolite, the fan allowed for a connection between individuals, establishing a kind of discreet dialogue between two interlocutors. Folded, it allowed pointing to something without actually pointing; unfolded, it served as an improvised tray to offer an object to someone. Due to its expanding shape (it widens as it unfolds), the fan could also evoke a spiritual journey, openness, and gaining prominence. Offering a fan then allowed for wishes of prosperity to be conveyed ("may your life, your riches unfold like this fan"). A tool of courtesy and propriety, the fan also allowed for politely concealing a laugh or acting as a protective barrier during greetings or condolences (the fan was then drawn from the kimono and placed between the two interlocutors). Even today in Japan, offering a fan is an appreciated gesture, without having previously written a small message to its recipient as before, directly affixed to the paper it is made of. Thus close to its owner's eyes, the message gains particular emphasis. This use of the fan as a writing medium appears very regularly in romantic stories and tales of Japanese culture, contributing to giving the fan a role as a most poetic messenger and ambassador.
The Fan in Japanese Arts
But how can we discuss the importance of the fan in Japan without mentioning its centuries-old use in dance (especially geisha dance), theater (Noh or Kabuki), or martial arts? There was even a specific name for the fan used by geishas for the famous fan dance (a sequence of poses evoking a story, borrowing from theatrical codes): the Mai-ōgi (most often made of silk and decorated with splendid motifs). In traditional theater, each actor was given a fan that evoked the character's personality and emphasized their gestures. Known for its austerity, this form of theater allowed the fan to take on multiple representations: that of an oar, a sword, a knife, or a tray. Sometimes, it also symbolized snow, rain, or the sun. Finally, in some martial arts, the fan could be integrated into combat techniques used to disarm an opponent.
Thus, far from being a gadget or a mere clothing detail, the fan is an object rich in meaning and symbols, as complex and refined as its composition is simple and rudimentary.
Estéban's Official Fan under Paris 2024 license

A must-have to take everywhere this summer! At the stadium, outdoors, or on public transport for a breath of citrusy freshness throughout the day. Fall for this beautiful scented fan Citronella & Mint, a lovely scented object made in France from solid wood and endlessly refillable with the Citronella & Mint room spray.




















